Monday, October 23, 2006

In post-Communist Yugoslavia, grocery store Konzum you!

The long, crumbling Baroque facades of Austro-Hungarian empire, the packed trams, the teal adriatic, the food (the food!), the terra cotta roofs, the kava sa shlago, the kestin puree, the drunken nights in Dubrovnik, the drunken days in Zagreb, the nightmarish fairy tale of Slovenia, the delicate English English (Alexis's aunt says the Serbs were very naughty), Franz Josef's gilded theater, the crater holes left and framed, the hidden traces of the Jews, the Gypsies, the queers, the Serbs, the Ustashi cemetary plowed flat and planted with quiet, innocent trees, for when the Fascists fell, everyone had been a Partisan.